Santorini Sunsets

The Greek island of Santorini is in fact the caldera rim of a vast volcano that erupted 3000 years ago, ahniliating the bronze age civilisation that lived upon it. Today towns of whitewashed buildings cling to its high cliff tops overlooking the now sea filled caldera and the new volcanic mass rising in its centre.

I hopped over from Athens on one of the large, comfortable passenger ferries. While my ferry was very nice indeed, I could not help but envy those arriving on the many luxury mega liners to visit Santorini.

I went out to the volcano in the bay on a boat one day. At the moment it is dormant, having not erupted since 1950 . Still you can smell the sulphur in the air and on its shore the water is warmed by thermal vents. I swam into the hot springs from the boat, the water becoming warm and oxide red from the iron. There was a frenzy of people covering themselves with volcanic mud. Perhaps it's good for the skin.

Upon my return to the island I was faced with a hot, steep climb up the cliffs from the port to the main town of Fira. Cruise ship passengers are shuttled up on trains of donkeys. My experience of donkeys in Nepal had given me a dislike of the beasts. Then, as I was walking along, one lent over and bit my shoulder!

From the cliff tops Santorini is most beautiful at sunset. As the sun dips into the Mediterranean the hues of the red streaked cliffs deepen and the sky fades through orange and pink to dark blue, tinting the whitewashed houses. The clarity of the water means you can see the dark shadows of huge schools of fish moving through the bay, they seemed to be swimming to escape some unseen predator.

My second island destination was Paros, an island of less dramatic topography but fringed by golden sandy beaches and cool, crystal waters. I spent much of my time reading and swimming away the last few days of the journey, recuperating after many months of travel.

One night a large religious precession passed through the town. There were Greek Orthodox priests and monks in black robes, children carrying sceptres and incense, marching bands and crew from a navy ship moored offshore. I it was huge but I have no idea what it was about.

Next stop: Athens and it's airport.