Reflections on Europe.

In just over 2 months I have crossed a continent. From North West to South East, visiting five very different countries (Six including the Vatican City): Germany, Czech Republic, France, Italy, Vatican and Greece. From here my six months in Asia seem distance, so much has passed since I left. Travelling between both continents served to highlight vast differences between east and west, both in terms of wealth and culture. One day amongst the worlds poorest in India, another amongst the worlds richest holidaying off the Almalfi Coast.

For It's small area, Europe packs in a diverse patchwork of nations and cultures. I only saw a small amount, mostly in the West. As I traveled south from Berlin the climate changed from cool and wet continental to hot, dry and forever sunny Mediterranean. The trains stopped running on time and the people began to talk with their hands. All these variable cultures with only one stamp in the passport and one easy currency experiencing a financial crisis.

Highlights Include:
• Berlin's many museums
• Swimming down the Valta in Cesky Krumlov.
• Art, Art and more Art in Paris
• Parisian street life.
• Meeting Gemma and Nikki in Venice
• Eating Italian pizza, pasta and gelato
• The amazing scenery of the Almalfi coast
• Roman and Greek ruins, such as Pompeii and the Acropolis
• Subsets and swimming on the Cyclades Islands.

Santorini Sunsets

The Greek island of Santorini is in fact the caldera rim of a vast volcano that erupted 3000 years ago, ahniliating the bronze age civilisation that lived upon it. Today towns of whitewashed buildings cling to its high cliff tops overlooking the now sea filled caldera and the new volcanic mass rising in its centre.

I hopped over from Athens on one of the large, comfortable passenger ferries. While my ferry was very nice indeed, I could not help but envy those arriving on the many luxury mega liners to visit Santorini.

I went out to the volcano in the bay on a boat one day. At the moment it is dormant, having not erupted since 1950 . Still you can smell the sulphur in the air and on its shore the water is warmed by thermal vents. I swam into the hot springs from the boat, the water becoming warm and oxide red from the iron. There was a frenzy of people covering themselves with volcanic mud. Perhaps it's good for the skin.

Upon my return to the island I was faced with a hot, steep climb up the cliffs from the port to the main town of Fira. Cruise ship passengers are shuttled up on trains of donkeys. My experience of donkeys in Nepal had given me a dislike of the beasts. Then, as I was walking along, one lent over and bit my shoulder!

From the cliff tops Santorini is most beautiful at sunset. As the sun dips into the Mediterranean the hues of the red streaked cliffs deepen and the sky fades through orange and pink to dark blue, tinting the whitewashed houses. The clarity of the water means you can see the dark shadows of huge schools of fish moving through the bay, they seemed to be swimming to escape some unseen predator.

My second island destination was Paros, an island of less dramatic topography but fringed by golden sandy beaches and cool, crystal waters. I spent much of my time reading and swimming away the last few days of the journey, recuperating after many months of travel.

One night a large religious precession passed through the town. There were Greek Orthodox priests and monks in black robes, children carrying sceptres and incense, marching bands and crew from a navy ship moored offshore. I it was huge but I have no idea what it was about.

Next stop: Athens and it's airport.

Legacy of a Golden Age in a City Fallen on Hard Times

The journey between Naples and Athens took three trains, an overnight car ferry, two busses and 33hours. On the car ferry I tried sleeping out under the stars, on a steel deck. It's not as uncomfortable as it sounds. I made myself a thin bed out of my clothes and slept well for two hours before waking up to find the deck wet with sea spray. It was time to go sleep on the carpet inside.

I can't say Athens is the prettiest city I've visited. It's big, sprawling and shabby by European standards. The recession is highly visible with stalled construction projects, boarded up shop fronts and out of work people who give speeches about their situation (in Greek) and then try to sell lighters or tissues. In yesterday's SMH there was a report of a big round up of illegal immigrants in Greece. I saw this, walking past a large line of police detaining scores of South Asian and African men. Signs of an unhappy country.

 

It's a tragic state of affairs for the city that gave birth to western art, science, philosophy and democracy. The monuments to ancient Greece still stand upon the Acropolis with the Parthenon the most striking and visible structure.

My favourite example of Greek science and technology is a 2100 year old device housed in the archeological museum that was effectively a clockwork computer. By turning a handle multiple a system of complex gears outputs readings on dials that predict the position of the sun, the moon and it's phases, the planners and a prediction of the next solar and lunar eclipses. It's a truly remarkable device for its age.

Greece is the 13th and final destination country on my journey. In two weeks time I will be back in Australia after 8.5 months away.

In The Shadow of A Volcano

After the experience of Northern Europe, Naples came as a bit of a shock. It was shabby, the streets were littered and graffiti covered just about every inch of exposed concrete. It took a little while to adjust to, but Naples gradually grew on me.

The city sprawls along the Bay of Naples, overlooked by the volcano, Mount Vesuvius. At its base lies the ruined Roman city of Pompeii, frozen in time beneath a blanket of volcanic ash. Wander it's streets and you can still see the grooves worn in the road by cart traffic. Many of its buildings still stand, frescos adorning the walls, mosaics on the floors. One of the most macabre and fascinating sites however are the casts taken of bodies preserved in the postures of their final moments.

South of the Bay of Naples is the beautiful Almalfi coast where rugged granite mountains tumble down into the sparkling Mediterranean. I stayed in Positanio for two days, a small town who's whitewashed buildings cling to the steep terrain. From my hostel at the top of the town it was a winding walk down to the pebbly beach. Here the cool water is a brilliant shade of blue and incredibly clear. I was not alone in my enjoyment, the Almalfi Coast is a cruising ground for the super yachts of billionaires. In fact I went there on the recommendation of the crew from James Dyson's (The vacuum cleaner, hand dryer and fan millionaire) yacht who I had met way back in Darjeeling.