Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Cities within Cities, walls and the Beijing Opera

Beijing stews in a photochemical soup. It's hot and muggy and polluted in the Chinese capital.

Mao watches over the crowds
On our first day Tianenmen Square, the centre of the city, was blocked off. Apparently Vladimir Putin was on a visit to China to inconvenience our sightseeing. I actually didn't find the famed square as impressive as its reputation makes it out to be. It's rather cluttered with statues, security fences, giant screens showing propagandist films and then there is Mao's mausoleum, taking up a great deal of space. Inside the soviet style building lies the preserved body of Chairman Mao (who was 70% right and 30% wrong according to the official party line ), resting in a glass casket for thousands of Chinese to file past and pay their respects each day.


Opposite all that stands for the revolution in Tianenmen is all that stands for China's deeper past as an empire ruled by supremely wealthy and powerful emperors. The forbidden city, once forbidden is now a hive of tourist activity. Swarms of sightseers can make wandering this vast city of huge palaces and room upon room of ageing artefacts an exhausting task.

The Forbidden City

China's most famous sight however must be the Great Wall. A short bus ride away, snaking it's way along the ridge lines of the cool green mountains. It makes for pleasant walking, just ignore the crowds. At one point we were trapped in a full on people jam.

The Beauty of the Wall

And the Crowds...

Probably the only place we could go for peace and serenity was the summer palace. One can loose themselves of the city in this vast complex of parks and lakes, once the private domain of the imperial family. A sanctuary from the city. Chinese gardens are designed according to a beautiful aesthetic, with water, rocks, plants and buildings arranged in harmony. These lush and immaculately maintained places have been some of my favourite in China.

On our last night we treated ourselves to the Beijing opera. Yes, some of the singing was as if by a cat being strangled, but the costumes were amazing, as was the acrobatics and dancing. Translations were provided, sometimes with humorous consequences.

Mandarin presents possibly the most bizarre and humorous direct translations as seen on signs and menus everywhere. Even the official signs are rife with errors. This road is "closded" today. Here are a few appetising menu items I have seen, taken from places such as "chafing restaurant."

Spicy chicken gizzard explosion
Mushroom rape
Does the pot carp(?)
On floor grilled fish
Acid noodle soup
Head bubble bread
Gluttonous frog
Clear soup sheep son of karma
Pimple soup
Dry Grass
Blasting can Chineese
Surprise belly cut
It like honey!
Cluck old meat
Fried hair

5 comments:

  1. What an intriguing menu selection! I'd really like to start with an acid noodle soup followed by the spicy chicken gizzard explosion, finishing off with a surprise belly cut. Sounds sublime. Beats the hell out of a King Street pad thai.

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  2. Some of the funnies (and scariest) things I've read while travelling have been chinglish menus. And street signs.

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  3. I bumped into Brodie yesterday and he told me you were in Berlin. How has the change of scenery been? Actually how have you been? I really enjoy reading your blogs :)

    Hope to see you soon :)
    Greg

    P.S. Just for your amusement, when I was in China in January, me, Liam, Sproul, Jeremy Lloyd and Shane Leviton found a dish in Shanghai called 'assorted meats urinated meatballs'

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    1. Oh wow, 'assorted meats urinated meatballs'
      defanately takes the prize as the weridest Chineese Menu item!

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  4. those are hilarious jay! Funny signs are the best

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