The Plain of Jars

My primary reason for being in Phonsavan (click to see on map) was the Plain of Jars, a  2000 year old archeological mystery. As the name suggests, huge stone jars litter the landscape. Crafted by ancient tribes who once lived in this area, the jars were tombs in which bones were placed after cremation. In the cold morning mist the site was reminiscent of Stone Henge, ancient stone monuments whose constructors remain shrouded in mystery. It is not the jars however that most characterize this landscape, for a far more recent historical event now leaves this land scared and treacherous to tread. When walking the sites one must remain within the zone cleared from unexploded bombs dropped during the 'Secret War' of the 60s and 70s. The tiny area cleared drives home the real danger of this deadly legacy and difficulty posed in making the land safe again. Some estimates say it will take 200 years to clear Laos of unexploded bombs.

A UXO marker- The white side denotes
the safe zone. 

The 'Secret War' is less known than the more famous conflict in Vietnam, but it is no less tragic. A war against both the communists in Laos and the Vietnamese using Laos as a supply root to the south that was conducted by the United States entirely by dropping bombs and supplying arms to the anti communist forces. More bombs were dropped here than were in Germany in the second world war, making it the most heavily bombed country on earth. I cant remember the total figure but it is the equivalent of half a ton of bombs dropped for every Lao. Given that even a bombulet the size of a mandarin is enough to turn it's victims into 'pink mist', the amount of bombs dropped defies all belief. 30% of these bombs never detonated, and that is what makes life so dangerous and entrenches poverty as uncleared land is too dangerous to farm. 40 years on the war continues to find casualties.