After Tet

It has been over a week in Hanoi now and over the last few days city has been slowly unfurling from it's holiday slumber, with shops opening and traffic returning to it's normal maddened state. The pace of my travels were adjusted accordingly, allowing for a more relaxed appreciation of the city and its sites.

The bridge over the lake lit up at night

A few of the best include:

• The Temple of Literature- A thousand year old university come shrine to education 
• Hoa Lo Prison- Where the French interned political prisoners in torturous conditions. Later home to captured American airmen including the former Republican presidential nominee John Mcain. 
• The Museum of Ethnology- Documenting Vietnam's cultural diversity. 

The latter I visited today, giving a fascinating insight into the many varied cultures of Vietnam, and there are many of them. In this nation of 86million people there are 56 ethnic groups, each with their own unique way of life and distinct cultural styles. The dominant Vietnamese make up around 85% of the population, mostly in the lowlands with ethnic minorities generally residing in the mountainous west. Whilst the museum did not touch upon the politics between these groups (or with the dominant Viet), the cultural diversity reminded me of that of my own country, albeit just in a very different context.

My cultural experience of the North Vietnamese is, well, they are not the lovely happy to see you Lao or Thai. It's a much more closed society, but then again I am in a big city. The needless pushing and shoving can get annoying and I have been whacked a few times for no good reason. I hear that in the south they are alot nicer. Still it is an amazing country and and a little coldness from the locals doesn't spoil the experience. 

The weather is still cold and the sky constantly grey. Such a contrast to hot sunny Laos. Tomorrow I'm off to Ha Long Bay to trade the city for submerged limestone mountains.

Tet in Hanoi

Crossing the remote border from Laos to Vietnam was an adventure. I wont go into it, but I was hopelessly ripped off stranded in a town where no one spoke english and as the only foreigner, I was pointed, laughed at and treated as an oddity. I eventually arrived in rainy Hanoi at four in the morning, thankfully still in good spirits.

Hanoi is a city where life spills onto the streets in a vibrant, chaotic swirl of motorbikes, street stalls and vendors selling steaming bowls of Pho. Every street offers some new sensation, and any walk through the maze of the old quarter and beyond offers endless sights. The first day I became hopelessly lost, twice. Although I knew I was but streets away from the backpackers I was staying at, I just could not seem to make it there. It took two days to learn the streets, and GPS has come in handy here. It is also very cold, 15C and overcast during the day and colder than at night. I had to buy another jumper to wear under my jacket, tropical SE Asia this is not.

Crossing the street is something often feared by travelers to Vietnam as the roads are chocked with motorbikes traveling in all manner of directions, road rules non existent. The trick is to take it slow, not to make any sudden movements and let the motorbikes dodge around you. After the first morning I was crossing with confidence.

Yesterday was the eve of Tet, the Vietnamese lunar new year. In the morning I took a visit to see Ho Chi Minh in his mausoleum. It is a strange, almost macabre attraction, visiting a body, but when in Hanoi it is the thing to do. The experience only lasts about a minute, as you are shuffled past in groups and then back out of the mausoleum. Ho himself looked like a wax work museum piece, perfectly preserved yet a bit too shiny and plastic looking. That night there was a spectacular fireworks display over the lake in the center of the city at midnight to mark the beginning of Tet. The night was freezing. Walking back to the hostel (after escaping from the huge crowd) people were out on the streets burning paper money and all manner of things that their relatives may need after death.

The down side of Tet is, everything is closed for the next  three days. The streets are strangely quiet and barren, the traffic almost non existent. It is a very different face of a city usually swarming with activity.

Deep Within the Mountain

Morning, Kong Lo Village

Yesterday I journeyed to a tiny village in rural Lao whose fields were walled in by steep limestone mountains. Despite the remoteness I was in good lodgings that appeared to be brand new, there was still plastic on the fittings and the smell of sawdust in the air. On the downside there was no internet connection to access my university offer that came out yesterday. It was the real authentic Laos, that night I witnessed the slaughter of a pig (not a nice experience). In the morning I, with an English mother and son who were travelling the world, descended into Kong Lo Cave, a 7.5km subterranean water world that wound beneath the mountains. We traveled by boat, having to alight every so often and wade as the boat was pulled up rapids. Only the lights of our torches illuminated the cavernous tunnel, at times so big you could surely fit a 747 within. As the boat sped through the river cave it reminded me of the part from Charlie and the Chocolate Factory where they are hurtling on that boat between rooms in the factory. It was an exciting and sometimes surreal experience yet absolutely peaceful deep within the mountain. The passage goes straight through the mountains and is used not just as a tourist attraction, but as a way of connecting villages. On the way back it was slightly unpleasant to sit behind a monk who chose to smoke in the cave. This evening it was back to civilization to accept the uni offer: B.Political Economic Social Science at the University of Sydney for 2013.

Noodle Soup

As I am departing Laos in a few days I thought I would touch on a subject that is core to the travel experience; food. The selecting and eating of cuisine is a highlight and a dominant feature of each day. Thai food of course is world renowned for classic dishes such as Pad Thai and Green Curry. I was suprised that these too were popular too in Thailand outside the tourist areas and are not just some western corruption of Thai cuisine. Whilst I tried many kinds of dishes I also tried many variations of Pad Thai, no two are the same. Whilst Thai food is spicy and diverse, Lao food is more subtle and limited in range. The dish that is most common and for me is now synonymous with Laos is rice noodle soup, kind of like the Vietnamese pho. Baguets abound in Lao, a legacy of the French colonial period, which is welcome given the absence of bread in Thailand. So far I have had little trouble finding vegetarian food, although tofu seems to be a rairity (more a Chinese thing?). Chang Mai was particuarly satisfying as it had an abundance of vegetarian places to eat. I would like to now mention a few of my favorite dishes so far:

~My first street food experience- Pad Thai on the streets of China Town on the second night. And for only a dollar.
~The Vegetable Masala Dosa from the Indian Emporium in Bangkok-Not Thai or Lao but oh so good.
~Tofu and mushrooms in a black sauce at the night market overlooking the river in Ayuthaya.
~ Green beans, Tofu and mushrooms with ginger over brown rice at AUM Organic restaurant on Christmas eve in Chang Mai. (and an excellent vegi burger on Christmas day)
~Mekong River Weed- Like nori sheets but with a more subtle flavour and less salty. Served with garlic and seasame seeds.
~Lao Red curry with sticky rice on the balcony of a bungalow (not my bungalow) on New Years Eve- Possibly the best curry I have ever had.
~Pancakes in Southern Thailand, Roti in Northern Thailand and Crepes in Laos, excellent after any meal.
~Fruit Shakes!

A Banana Pancake I had in Thailand

I have of course experienced some cravings, some of them odd, for food from home. Some of these include: Avocado, olive oil, oats, brown bread, sunflower seeds, macadamia nuts, oats, scones with cream and jam I really dont know why but I just want them. The things you only miss when you can not have them!

The Lao Capital

Vientiene is a small, charming little town. Small enough to see in a day, yet relaxed enough to stay a few. Like Luang Prabang it echoes of a French Colonial past in the architecture, in the streetscapes. Yet there are also rumblings of changes to come as the economy grows and develops with large construction sites ushering in the new Laos. I arrived by bus from Vang Vieng on Saturday night. The bus never actually made it to it's destination, breaking down just inside the city. Rather than wait for a replacement, I took a tuk tuk with some others the remainding few kilometers into the city centre. After finding a doorm to sleep in, the first taks in any new city is to find your bearings and somewhere to eat. It's always a little more bewildering at night, as the dark masks the true form of the city. Ambling down the street, guide book covering my face, tactfully dislodging the lady who had tried to  attach herself to my arm, the first forey is always fun.
Vientiene rests on the banks of the Mekong, with a wide promenade to walk upon and watch the sunset. It's other sites are slightly lacklustre, such as the strange Arc de Triomph replica whose sign reads, 'up close it resembles a concrete monster,' and it does. Apparanlty in the 60s the Americans donated the concrete to build an airport, so the Lao built this. The National Museum starts off with an informed prehistory display but quickly decends into halls of faded nationalist revolutionary propegander against the 'Impearialist Americans.' This was an experience within itself.

Today I put in for my Vietnam visa and so I should be there by the end of the week. Currently I am taking refuge from the afternoon heat within a cafe, and for the wifi.

Viang Veng

Laos is a country of idillic beauty, of limestone mountains and bamboo villages. Steeped in culture and tradition. Then you get to Viang Veng and your SE Asian paradise implodes. It's a shock to the system, all of a sudden surrounded by drunk shirtless British and Australians that seem to have somehow spilled over from the party beaches of Thailand. It makes you want to run screaming from the place and never return to western civilization from whence these creatures eliminated. So why have I not fled? The paradox of the place is that it is so ugly, yet surrounded by so much beauty. Just over the bridge and you are in rice fields surrounded by breathtaking scenery. I hired a bike yesterday and set off along the bumpy, rocky roads out to a cave. I was almost alone that huge cavernous expanse, exploring with only a small headlamp to light my way. There was no fear in the darkness, just a blissful subterranean tranquility. Emerging into the sunlight again I went swimming in the blue waters that flowed from the caves. Tomorrow I am leaving trash town however for Vientiane. I shall not miss you Viang Veng, still it has been an eye opening experience. 

The Plain of Jars

My primary reason for being in Phonsavan (click to see on map) was the Plain of Jars, a  2000 year old archeological mystery. As the name suggests, huge stone jars litter the landscape. Crafted by ancient tribes who once lived in this area, the jars were tombs in which bones were placed after cremation. In the cold morning mist the site was reminiscent of Stone Henge, ancient stone monuments whose constructors remain shrouded in mystery. It is not the jars however that most characterize this landscape, for a far more recent historical event now leaves this land scared and treacherous to tread. When walking the sites one must remain within the zone cleared from unexploded bombs dropped during the 'Secret War' of the 60s and 70s. The tiny area cleared drives home the real danger of this deadly legacy and difficulty posed in making the land safe again. Some estimates say it will take 200 years to clear Laos of unexploded bombs.

A UXO marker- The white side denotes
the safe zone. 

The 'Secret War' is less known than the more famous conflict in Vietnam, but it is no less tragic. A war against both the communists in Laos and the Vietnamese using Laos as a supply root to the south that was conducted by the United States entirely by dropping bombs and supplying arms to the anti communist forces. More bombs were dropped here than were in Germany in the second world war, making it the most heavily bombed country on earth. I cant remember the total figure but it is the equivalent of half a ton of bombs dropped for every Lao. Given that even a bombulet the size of a mandarin is enough to turn it's victims into 'pink mist', the amount of bombs dropped defies all belief. 30% of these bombs never detonated, and that is what makes life so dangerous and entrenches poverty as uncleared land is too dangerous to farm. 40 years on the war continues to find casualties.

Mountain Road

The roads in Laos (of which there are few) posess a certain notoriety amongst travellers. I however found them great fun. The road from Luang Prabang to Phosovan (check my map) winds high through the mountain. By winds, i mean a sharp 90 degree twist every 20 or so meters. If you thought the Bilgola Bends was windy, think even more windy, and then extend it across six hours. Six hours could get you 600km in Australia, in Laos it gets you about 150. The condition of the road is not much better, with deep rutts and dusty patches. Twice we were forced to stop as the dustcloud from a passing car had reduced visability to zero. Still it was great fun bouncing arround in our mini bus, and the scenery was constantly awe inspiring as we wound through limestone peaks, high above deep valleys. Whilst beautiful, most were stripped of their timber. Onwards we drove through villages perched on cliftops, with cows and pigs and chickens scattering before the traffic. Throughout the journey Lao and Thai music throbed from the bus speakers. Today however, much to my dismay, western 90s pop music was our soundtrack. It's incongruency with the landscape was quite humorous, as 'i'm a barby girl' blared loudly amidst the mist shrouded peaks.

The landscape of Phosovan was very different, with dry yellow grass fields dotted by trees fringed by low, gentle hills. It was strangely evocative of an Australian landscape, least of all due to the fact the trees were eucalypts. On closer inspection there were also wattles. Even a Spanish man remarked, 'does this not look like the outback?' Why the Australian fauna should be there, I do not know, but it disturbed me to see Eucalypts as a weed in this country.

Phosovan itself was bland and lacking of any charm, mostly being rebuilt after destruction in the war. I still liked it, being far removed from the pretty heritage of Luang Prabang. Mostly it was cold, at night less than 10C. Even the German an Dane who I went to have Indian with that night were freezing. One thing I did not expect was to be that cold in South East Asia.

Luang Prabang

Main Street of Luang Prabang

Waterfalls 

Nestled between two rivers in the heart of Northern Laos, Luang Prabang is Paris in the jungle. Tangerine robed monks walk between golden temples and whitewashed French Colonial architecture. In the middle of the world heriage listed peninsular there is a steep climb to a wat (temple) on a hill from which you can watch the sun dip behind the limestone peaks that overlook the Mekong. On Monday with six others I had met on the boat we took a tuk tuk out to the waterfalls, turquoise blue (i assume from their high calcium carbonate content?) cascades that tumble over flowstone within the jungle. We trekked up the falls before swimming in the cold waters of the lower pools.





Life is not always so sublime though, I have been confined to my bed all day after becoming ill, with what I think is food poisoning. Hopefully it will pass and I will be able to continue on my journey soon.

Meander the Mighty Mekong

After the flat expanse of rice fields the journey into Laos was an ascent into wilder and less tame lands. Limetone peaks rose from the sandy shores of the river into misty skys; covered at times in lush rainforest and at others with deciduous golds and browns. Tiny villages of bamboo huts clustered within clearings overlooking the river from which their lives are drawn. Men cast nets, women washed and children played along it's shores. My photogaphs appear flat and fail to capture the true nature of the scenery that surounded on all sides. The night was spent in the town of Pak Beng, and in the morning I ate breakfast overlooking a now mist shrouded river. The long river boat was comfortable and afforded two higly relaxing days of voyaging. We arrived upon the famous world heritage peninsular of Luang Prabang as the sun was setting.

New Years In Luang Prabang
Amidst this timeless landscape I had forgotten that it was New Years Eve. (It is not Lao New Year for a few months). I had dinner with some people off the boat, a beautiful red curry with sticky rice, a meal that must be one of my favourites of the trip so far. The sticky rice is formed into a ball with the hand and then dipped into the curry. Later we went to an outdoor bar on the river. At midnight sky lanterns were released across the city forming new a new constilation of stars in the sky. There were also fireworks and dancing and a fire. The usual midnight curfew was lifted for this special night in Luang Prabang. On New Years Day I explored the picturesque streets of colonial french architecture set amongst the Asian jungle. The french legacy lingers further with baguettes, pasteries and cakes in abundance. At night within the Hmong Night Market I discovered a vegetarian buffet of all kinds of delicious dishes. For 10000 kip ($1.20) you can pile your plate high. I felt rich today when I withdrew one million from the atm, unfortunately this is really only $130.